The green scent of spicy cucumber the violet stem exudes is antithesis to the flower's scent. To reproduce the fruity, gourmand and slightly woody fragrance of its petals, Francis Kurkdjian uses odorous molecules called Ionones. In feminine perfumery, the violet lends a powdery facet or a gustatory sensation that blends beautifully with rosy notes. Its green facet is widely used in men's fragrances.
Geranium from Egypt
Native to Southern Africa, the oil obtained by distillation of the leaves of Pelargonium graveolens delivers a green, lemony, minty top note reminiscent of lemongrass, which extends into the heart with a rosy floral effect. Although used in women's fragrances, geranium is generally considered to be a masculine flower.
Oud from Laos
The power and complexity of its musky, woody, leathery, smoky and honeyed scent is only matched by the mystery of its creation; largely random since it depends on the fungal infection of a Southeast Asian tree also known as Agarwood (Aquilaria). It is among the most sought-after ingredients in the East and in Asia, and is also one of the most expensive, resulting in poaching. This is why Francis Kurkdjian has chosen an Oud from Laos produced according to the principles of fair and sustainable trade. He combines its vibrant notes with intense flowers, spices and other woods for a bewitching sillage.
Also called the May rose - because that is the month of its flowering - the Centifolia Rose blooms in Grasse, in the south of France. Particularly delicate, it flowers only once a year which explains its rarity and its high cost. The roses are picked by hand, early in the morning. Its generous and complex rose floral notes stand out by their beautiful petal-like effect and honeyed facet.
Damask rose's appeal lies in its highly distinctive honeyed accents and slightly spicy scent. Originally from Persia, it is now cultivated in Bulgaria, Turkey and Iran. It has generous rosy floral notes used mainly in the heart and base of a fragrance.
Vanilla Amber Accord
The amber used in perfumery has nothing to do with the yellow amber stone, which is ornamental but has no smell, nor with ambergris, which refers to an animal extract from the sperm whale. It includes two flagship ingredients, cistus labdanum, with its warm, resinous, animal facets, and vanillin, a new, sweet aromatic compound, which is the primary component of vanilla. The combination of these two warm and persistent notes has been considered to form the amber accord, generally enriched with tonka bean, coumarin and resins such as benzoin or incense, which are all base notes.
Cinnamon from Ceylon
This spice is derived from a tropical tree, Cinnamomum zeylanicum, and the best quality comes from Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon). Its oil gives off a warm woody but also sweet and powdery gourmand scent. Used in top and heart notes, cinnamon is often associated with oriental and woody accords. Francis Kurkdjian likes to blend it with flowers for its highlighting effect.
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